PEARL VALUATION

Pearl valuation is the term used to describe the quality and value of a pearl or multi-pearl piece. The overall pearl valuation includes the quality rating, the pearl type and pearl size. Select Pearls has adopted the most widely used scale to rate the quality of our pearls, the GIA A-AAA Scale. Applying a grade, or quality rating, to pearls is a result of measuring five specific pearl attributes, which are: luster, inclusions (surface imperfections), shape, matching, and nacre thickness.

THE GEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF AMERICA (GIA)

The GIA was established in 1931 and is the world's largest and most respected nonprofit institute of gemological research and learning.

In the grand tradition of Europe's most respected institutes, GIA discovers, imparts, and applies gemological knowledge through research, education, and laboratory instrumentation to ensure the public trust in gems and jewellery.

The GIA institute's scientists, graders, and educators are regarded, collectively, as the world's foremost authority in gemology.

THE GIA AAA-A PEARL GRADING SYSTEM

This system grades pearls on a scale from AAA to A, with AAA being the highest grade, this grading scale is common to Freshwater and Akoya pearls, but is also interpreted for use with South Sea and Tahitian pearls for clarity in pearl valuation.

AAA: The highest quality pearl, near flawless. The surface will have a very high luster, and 95% or more of the surface will be free from inclusions.
AA: The surface will have a very high luster and 75% or more of the surface will be free from inclusions.
A: The lowest jewellery grade pearl, with a lower luster and more than 25% of the surface has inclusions. Often these pearls are mounted into pieces of jewellery so that the defects are hidden, whereas if used on a strand all the defects would be visible.

Because the ranges in the scale are so broad most reputable jewellers will use intermediate grades between those described by the GIA in order to achieve a much more accurate assessment and valuation for the pearls being sold.

Internationally the most commonly used scale is as follows:

AAA: The highest quality pearl, near flawless. The surface will have a very high luster, and 95% or more of the surface will be free from inclusions.
AA+: High quality pearls. The surface will have a very high luster, and 90% or more of the surface will be free from inclusions.
AA: The surface will have a very high luster and 75% or more of the surface will be free from inclusions.
A+: The surface will have a good luster and 70% or more of the surface will be free from inclusions.
A: The lowest jewellery grade pearl, with a lower luster and more than 25% of the surface has inclusions. Often these pearls are mounted into pieces of jewellery so that the defects are hidden, whereas if used on a strand all the defects would be visible.

It is also important to note that in multi-pearl pieces like necklaces or bracelets, all of the individual pearls may not exactly match the indicated grade level. A small portion of the pearls used may be at a higher grade or have a few more surface inclusions or slightly lower luster. However the overall piece will accurately reflect the grade specified. This is because matching is a primary consideration in multi-pearl jewellery valuation.

THE PEARL SCIENCE LABORATORY (PSL) OF JAPAN, HANADAMA GRADE

"Hanadama" is a Japanese term used to describe a hank (or strand) of Akoya saltwater pearls that have been certified as being almost perfectly flawless. Hanadama pearls would comprise about 0.5% of the top 1% of the best quality AAA pearls ever harvested. These are the best quality Akoya saltwater pearls that can be found anywhere in the world.

In order to have a hank of pearls certified as being Hanadama they are submitted to the PSL in Japan to under go a series of tests such as soft x-rays, light spectro photometric reflectance, magnification and inner inspection by optical fiber. This allows the PSL to exactly measure nacre thickless, luster, surface imperfections, (etc.). At the end of this analysis if a hank has met the criteria for being of Hanadama grade a numbered certificate will be assigned to the hank of pearls by the PSL.

The PSL is the only authority in the world which can assign a Hanadama grade.

IMPORTANT TO NOTE

It is important when purchasing pearls to be certain of the meaning of the quality ratings being used. Not every seller uses the GIA scale, so if it has not been provided up front, ask to see a written description of each grading term so that you understand exactly what the grade implies. Reputable jewellers will be happy to comply with such a request. This is the only way will you be able to determine if the price the seller is asking for is fair.